Each May, the seaside city of Cannes swells with celebrities strutting the coveted red carpet at the film festival — an event whose publicity is rivaled by the Olympics. But the former fishermen’s village now associated with A-listers and yachts, especially along the boutique-clad Croisette promenade, is also home to some of the French Riviera’s most prestigious hotels and beach clubs.
The heart of the city is the old town of Le Suquet, where you’ll find vaulted passageways, sloping streets and a history spanning a thousand years. From local specialties like socca (a chickpea flour flatbread) at the covered Provençal Marché Forville to the revived Roaring Twenties-inspired Palm Beach Cannes casino, here’s how to taste the best the city has to offer over the next few months.
Where to Stay
The art deco-flavored Hôtel Martinez Cannes feels like a resort, with a beautifully landscaped inner courtyard garden, the L’Oasis du Martinez spa and a swish beach club along the Croisette, opposite the grande dame.
Ticking all the boxes when it comes to luxury, the Forbes Travel Guide Recommended address also features a duo of Pierre-Yves Rochon-designed penthouse apartments, which are among Europe’s largest. Sprawling across the seventh floor, the cinema-inspired spaces are perched over the Bay of Cannes, meaning you’ll have 180-degree views of the Mediterranean and Croisette from the expansive terrace unfolding below the Martinez’s iconic neon rooftop sign.
Where to Go
Get your bearings by starting where the city began, in Le Suquet. Stroll through the terra cotta-colored Marché Forville, where many of the Riviera’s top chefs source local produce, seafood, cheese and Italian charcuterie.
As you crisscross the old town’s cobbled streets, you’ll pass newer additions like the Suquet des Artistes, a gallery space and studios dedicated to four Cannes-based contemporary artists. For sweeping views over the city and the nearby Lérins Islands, climb the 109 steps up the medieval watchtower of the Musée des Explorations du Monde, a former castle and convent that’s been converted into a museum filled with Mediterranean and Asian antiquities, fine art and musical instruments sourced from around the world.
From the Port of Cannes, hop on a 15-minute ferry to the Lérins, two walkable islands where you can tour the Fort Royal, home to the Man in the Iron Mask’s mysterious cell, on Sainte-Marguerite Island, or visit the abbey and sample the monks’ wine on Saint-Honorat.
Pick up a few items from the market in the morning to picnic at one of the pine tree-shielded tables or bring a mask and snorkel for a glimpse of the six submerged statues off Sainte-Marguerite’s southern shore. The island’s other claim to fame is La Guérite, one of the Riviera’s hardest-to-book restaurants, where DJs keep everyone dancing during a lunch that lingers until sunset.
Once you’re back on the Croisette, keep the party going at the aforementioned Palm Beach Cannes. The Hispano-Moresque and art deco building that’s been recently revived houses some of the city’s top restaurants, from La Petite Maison Cannes to Zuma. The latter is where you’ll want to start with a drink on the terrace as the sun sets.
The frescoed Casino Royal Palm is as glamorous now as it was in its heyday when it attracted countesses and writers like F. Scott Fitzgerald. Cabaret Medusa has also transformed Palm Beach into an entertainment destination, with sequin- and feather-filled shows that feel like a Mediterranean take on Las Vegas, with elements of sultry Crazy Horse Paris thrown in.
Where to Dine & Drink
At Hôtel Martinez Cannes’ La Plage du Martinez, the décor blends nautical touches with film festival references, such as movie director chairs emblazoned with names like James Dean and Harrison Ford. Take a seat for a Mediterranean spread of charcoal-grilled local fish and stuffed zucchini blossoms on the restaurant’s deck before lounging in one of the striped sunbeds — the most sought-after being the ones along the pontoon.
Dedicate one evening during your stay to La Palme d’Or, helmed by Jean Imbert, where the cuisine pays homage to the city’s start as a fishermen’s village with dishes like ember-grilled spiny lobster that’s been flambeed with cognac-smoked tomatoes and samphire (sea fennel).
After dinner, head downstairs for a nightcap at speakeasy-style Martinez Bar, draped in rich rouge and gold, where the highlight is rare vinyl spun by live DJs — the perfect pairing to gastronomic cocktails like El Matador, a blend of mezcal, tomato juice, lemon juice, chili bitters and olive oil.
Italian trattoria Da Laura has long reigned as one of the city’s favorites for its housemade pasta cooked to perfection and spruced up with simple touches like basil and tomato. In the heart of the old town, Chez Vincent et Nicolas encapsulates the best of traditional French fare like steak tartare, garlic butter-soaked escargot and roasted duck with fries.
If you can’t snag a reservation at La Guérite, you’ll be treated to a standout menu of Greek cuisine from Athenian-born chef Yiannis Kioroglou, the same culinary mastermind at Anna on the Croisette. The honey-drizzled feta filo is a must-order, as is the grilled eggplant prepped tableside and the catch of the day, which you can order grilled, sashimi or tartare-style.
The Old World feel of Pastis’ ancient parquet floors, weathered wooden tables and vintage posters adds a Parisian atmosphere. Brasserie fare, like croque monsieur sandwiches and pâté en croute, is elevated in the evening with dishes such as Milanese-style veal and confit lamb shoulder.
For a lively evening that doesn’t involve a nightclub, Luigi piano bar does the trick. Originally from the 1950s, the revamped version near the Croisette revolves around a restored bar clad in Riva oak wood with cherry-red banquettes lining an intimate space that livens with dancing as the evening goes on. Expect classics like fritto misto and burrata, plus linguine with caviar and prawn ravioli with zucchini flowers and stracciatella.
