There’s no region in America quite like Napa Valley. California’s premier grape-growing area has undergone tremendous changes in the past 50 years. What started as a small farming and agricultural community has grown into a world-class destination with more than 400 wineries, 150 restaurants and a dozen luxury hotels. It’s an international hub that attracts gourmands and wine lovers looking for a memorable experience.
To help plan the ultimate wine country escape, Forbes Travel Guide spoke with three locals: Kerrin Laz, the owner of K. Laz Wine Collection and Laz Wine and the founder of Inspire Napa Valley; vintner Jeff Durham, co-proprietor of Gentleman Farmer Wines; and Rose Ballantine, winemaker at Revana Estate. The trio provided insight on everything from hidden gem restaurants to must-visit wineries while also sharing the do’s and don’ts that will make your Napa Valley visit unforgettable.
Where to Stay
Check into The Meritage Resort and Spa, at the south end of the valley. The bustling lobby feels like it’s filled with the area’s top movers and shakers. The chic guest rooms have a cool white and gray palette, vineyard views and spacious bathrooms. There are multiple pools and dining options, including Ember Steak, the signature restaurant that serves superb sushi and perfectly cooked steaks, and Crush Lounge, an underground bowling alley that’s open late.
The stunning Spa Terra, with a Tuscan-inspired vibe, sits in a wine cave. The Meritage also attracts locals for its Blue Note Summer Sessions, outdoor concerts with musicians like Juanes, The Beach Boys and Boz Scaggs, and its holiday offerings that include an enchanting winter village complete with an ice skating rink.
Where to Taste
Before selecting which wineries you want to check out, get to know each district. There are 17 American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) in Napa Valley, and each specializes in different varietals. For example, Calistoga, which is in the northern part of Napa, is known for bold cabernet sauvignon and other rich, balanced reds like petite sirah. Coombsville is in the southeastern part of the valley and makes refined, elegant cabernets and bright chardonnays.
Each AVA has its own microclimate and soil type. Although it takes about an hour to drive from one end of the valley to the other, “Napa Valley is a tiny wine region in comparison to most of the regions in California, Italy, France, etcetera,” Laz explains. “We produce less than 5% of the total wine produced in California. We are a small yet strong region and are just starting to get into our groove.”
If you love white wines, Laz recommends visiting Hudson Ranch, which produces outstanding chardonnays but also interesting reds like grenache and cabernet Franc. “The property has an authentic beauty that makes it well worth the stop,” she says.
She couldn’t be more right: it’s one of the most stunning wineries we’ve ever visited. Tastings require an appointment, so book one in advance and be ready for a treat. You’ll start with a tour of the vast vineyards, cruising by the lake that provides water for the property, the lush vegetable and flower garden that supplies Hudson’s Oxbow Market farmstead and incredible palm trees, cacti and other flora and fauna. The attentive staff engages with only one group at a time, so you’ll have the team’s full attention.
If you have more time, Ballentine suggests Matthiasson, which is known for its sustainable farming, distinctive varietals and fresh, food-friendly pours. “Their wines are so fun, and Steve and Jill [Klein Matthiasson] are amazing humans,” Ballentine says. “It’s a different side of Napa from the big cab houses, which, for that being my day job, trying something different is often what I’m looking for when I’m not working.”
Where to Eat
A meal at Forbes Travel Guide Five-Star The French Laundry is always sensational, but there are plenty of other places that don’t require advanced planning and a difficult-to-secure reservation.
We love Four-Star FARM at Four-Star Carneros Resort and Spa for its barn-like space (A-frame and high ceilings) and farm-to-table cuisine. There is a lot of interesting seating, from cozy two-tops by the fireplace to outdoor booths for six. The attentive staff serves classic Italian cuisine with a twist from an elegant open kitchen. The pan-seared scallops with marinated artichokes are sheer perfection. FARM is the definition of casual fine dining.
All three locals recommended Mustards Grill, the 42-year-old eatery from chef Cindy Pawlcyn. It’s casually elegant with a garden-driven menu of delicious comfort food. “I love Mustards Grill for its consistently good food, well-curated wine list and great service — perfect for either lunch or dinner,” Laz says. Durham agrees, “Mustards will always be on the itinerary.”
Press and Rutherford Grill are other favorites. “I think the food at Press has been creative and consistently well-executed, with a focus on high-quality, locally sourced ingredients that showcase Napa Valley’s best,” Laz says. “Rutherford Grill feels like a local spot and is open late,” Ballentine says.
And if you need a few more suggestions, “The bar at A16 and Angéle is my go-to for family, drinks and food,” Durham says. “Late-night dining is [also] perfect at Scala.”
For cocktails, Laz enjoys Thomas Keller’s other hot spot, RO Restaurant & Lounge. “It’s just down the street from me, making it an easy and enjoyable walk for a great drink.” Margaritas are always a good idea, and as Durham says, “It takes a lot of tequila to make wine, so I love Chispa. All the blanco tequila I could ever need.”
Do’s and Don’ts
Do a Mix of Things
“Book a mix of experiences — some well-known, some off the beaten path — and leave time to explore local spots you didn’t plan for,” Laz says.
“Visit tasting rooms, try wine and see vineyards from both small and large producers,” Ballentine says. “Go to the hot-spot restaurants, but also try some hole-in-the-wall restaurants, walk the streets of town, but also go out and hike or see the valley from the mountains.”
Don’t Rush Things
“Take your time and don’t try to do it all,” Laz says. “Napa Valley isn’t about rushing from tasting to tasting — it’s about slowing down, getting to know the people behind the wines and enjoying the landscape along the way.”
Durham recommends spending one day exploring a single street, Second Street between School and Franklin, or Napa SoFi. “It packs a lot in a short block: Jeffries General, Ohm Coffee Roasters, Muguette Renee Boutique, Benevolent Neglect Wines, Gamling & McDuck Wine. Great vibes, great local owners. And don’t forget Antiques on Second.”
Do Visit All Year Long
There’s charm to the Valley from January through December. As Ballentine puts it, “watching the vineyards change throughout the year, whether it’s green or red or yellow or missing leaves, when mustard peeks up through or it’s rainy and gray — it never stops being beautiful.”
Don’t Be Afraid to Ask for Recommendations
Locals are always willing to share their favorite places with newcomers. A hotel can assist with reservations, arrange transportation to nearby wineries and provide advice on itineraries. Even AVAs like the Coombsville Vintners and Growers have a concierge who will personally set up tasting appointments. The Napa Valley Welcome Center, in downtown Napa, is another excellent resource for visitors and often holds tastings. On one recent day, Caymus was pouring samples of its cabernet sauvignon there.
Do Try Something New
When wineries release a new wine, they are eager for people to try it. Seek out new bottles like Chandon’s Reserve Blanc de Blanc, a sparkling wine that’s regeneratively farmed from the winery’s Carneros estate and aged a minimum of three and a half years.
Another new release we love is Coronet. It’s a bottling from the esteemed team at Arrow&Branch that is made from 30-year-old cabernet sauvignon vines.
Don’t Overlook Deals
While many people think that the days of complimentary wine tastings are gone, if you know where to look, you can find gratis tastings. At Raymond Vineyards, in the heart of Rutherford, tastings are available on Thursdays and Sundays. Sample two reserve whites and the quintessential estate cabernet sauvignon, exclusive to the winery, and enjoy a walk through its “theater of nature,” a garden that explains the wine-making process.
Do More Than Wine Tasting
The valley has fantastic hiking trails and beautiful boutiques. Durham says, “I recommend taking a morning stroll down Yount Mill Road in Yountville to see longhorn cattle, vineyards, homes, bikers, joggers, locals and visitors, all saying, ‘Good morning!’”
Don’t Overschedule Your Visit
There’s so much to see and do that it’s easy to book too many appointments in a day. To make the most of each tasting, schedule three hours per winery. “It’s a long valley, from American Canyon to Calistoga,” Durham says. “Pull out a Thomas Guide or use Google Maps and plan accordingly. For the love of God, three tastings max in a day and schedule your meals early.”
