When Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues Geneva debuted on the banks of the Rhône in 1834, it was the first luxury hotel in the city and the largest and grandest in Switzerland. But the neoclassical landmark isn’t just a part of history. The Forbes Travel Guide Five-Star continues to evolve with destination dining, wellness programming that doubles as an introduction to the city and its latest effort: an ongoing renovation of its rooms that wraps up next summer.
Read on for a peek at the sophisticated new accommodations and learn why this storied hotel remains an essential stay.
The New Rooms and Suites
For the renovation, the Four Seasons turned to celebrated designer Pierre-Yves Rochon, who helmed the Geneva hotel’s 2005 refurbishment. Rochon, whose work includes Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris and Waldorf Astoria New York, was tasked with preserving the property’s heritage while bringing it into the present.
The result is both elegant and timeless. Soft blues mirror Lake Geneva outside (you can see the water and the famed Jet d’Eau from many rooms), and light beige wainscoted walls set a serene tone. The walnut wood throughout, from the bedside tables to the spacious closets, adds warmth.
Each of the 115 rooms gets its own distinctive touches. Our Executive Suite had mountain-and-lake-inspired abstract paintings, and the bed fronted a wall covered in a subtle blue-on-blue velvet floral damask (a motif repeated in the carpet). A black and brass pedestal table replaces the traditional desk — here guests can work or pour a negroni from the in-room bar’s small-batch, pre-mixed cocktail made by Swiss brand Seventh Sense.
Bring it to sip in the bathtub, which has a peekaboo window into the bedroom (automatic blinds provide privacy when needed). Swathed in light gray stone, the bathroom offers a haven. A ceiling waterfall shower with embedded spotlights felt spa-like, especially with the Diptyque toiletries.
The Dining
In the morning, the Italian restaurant Il Lago’s well-curated spread includes sweets like tarte tropézienne and sour cherry cake alongside healthier options such as spinach-ricotta muffins and housemade cereal bars. But the best way to start the day is the Italian-style eggs Benedict, with pillowy focaccia rounds, a thick layer of pesto, tomatoes, poached eggs and a Parmesan crisp topper.
For lunch and dinner, the wood-paneled dining room serves winners like a carefully constructed sea bass medallion on a candied tomato base surrounded by a clam and fennel sauce; tender octopus adorned with crispy artichoke slices and creamy artichoke puree; and a bright, minty zucchini millefeuille. Then for dessert, go classic with a bowl of tiramisu or try something novel, like the refreshing, sweet-and-savory candied ciflorette strawberries with lemony stracciatella cheese, a quenelle of basil sorbet and strawberry sauce poured tableside.
Be sure to add wine pairings — specializing in Italian, French and Swiss labels, the extensive 15,000-bottle cellar holds everything from a 2023 Domaine Trapet Père & Fils Marsannay to a Nooh by La Coste non-alcoholic sparkling.
For dining, Il Lago gets much of the attention, and deservedly so, but Izumi is worth seeking out — it’s a favorite among locals. First off, there’s the setting: the alfresco Nikkei restaurant sits on the rooftop (heated in the winter, there’s also an indoor dining room). Take in sweeping views of the lake, mountains, Jet d’Eau and Ferris wheel with a Wasabi Martini. Made with Ketel One vodka, elderflower liqueur, Thai basil, cucumber, lime and wasabi, it’s a fresh, herbaceous libation with a sharp zing at the end.
We savored the usuzukuri sea bream (thin sashimi slices) in ponzu and truffle sauce; crispy rice piled with Alaskan king crab and ume salsa; and fatty tuna crowned with a layer of caviar, gold flecks and purple flower petals. But later we couldn’t stop thinking about the mini beef tartare tacos coated with a citrusy-smoky yuzu-anticuchos sauce.
For a more casual option, head to Bar des Bergues, which serves dishes like lobster risotto or black truffle tagliolini for lunch or dinner. Or simply sit for a drink like the excellent lychee pisco, a pink-hued floral mix with pisco, lychee, lime juice, St-Germain foam and champagne.
The Spa
Spanning two floors, Four-Star Spa Mont Blanc offers massages and body treatments, reiki and chakra balancing, and nail and hair services. Facials are a specialty, with an extensive menu from Dr Burgener Switzerland and Margy’s Monte Carlo.
We tried kobido, a Japanese facial massage. After prepping our face with Swiss Perfection products, the therapist got to work, employing a series of techniques to boost circulation and give our visage a more toned look. She also added in chilled cryotherapy globes to reduce redness. The massage also loosened our facial muscles with its calming, repetitive strokes.
After the treatment, the therapist served water and a square of collagen chocolate — a tasty extension of the skincare routine. We enjoyed them in the dark, cozy relaxation lounge, which had other treats, including chocolate-coconut energy balls; energy bars with oats, puffed rice, raisins and other dried fruit; and lemon balm and mallow flowers tea from Swiss brand Chanoyu.
In between bites, we tried the complimentary Therabody SmartGoggles, a blackout headset that employs heat and compression therapies to melt tension and help you drift off to sleep.
While the 30,000-square-foot spa offers amenities like a rooftop lap pool and vitality pool (both under a glass cathedral ceiling), a marble hammam and a steam room, it also has wellness programming. The slate of daily classes like cardio sculpt, Pilates and aquabiking is popular. But look for the guided activities that bring you outside, like hiking nearby Dent de Vaulion, where the summit delivers 360-degree views of various lakes and the Alps.
We chose a meditative walk along Lake Geneva. Our guide, a former ballerina, led the 45-minute morning stroll, stopping at Ile Rousseau, a tiny island in front of the hotel where we spotted swans and ducks gliding through the clear water. While we walked, she shared facts about the Jet d’Eau — the undeniable star of the scenery — and her favorite things about the waterfront and life in Geneva.
The engaging wellness experiences are just another reason why Geneva’s first grande dame remains one of the city’s best stays nearly two centuries on.
