Tatiana, chef Kwame Onwuachi’s delicious ode to Afro-Caribbean cuisine, is one of those popular New York City restaurants you have to strategize for to get a reservation. The 35-year-old talent’s other establishment, Dōgon, sits in the new Salamander Washington D.C. and is only slightly less demanding when it comes to getting on its calendar.
Little did we know that scheduling an interview with the man Time magazine recently named one of the 100 most influential people in the world would take so much planning, too. But we should have realized that, between running two of the most coveted restaurants on the East Coast, sprinting to meetings, filming YouTube shows and participating in culinary events like the upcoming SAVOR lifestyle festival in Texas (May 1 to 4), every second counts for Onwuachi.
On Forbes Travel Guide’s third attempt to get on the chef’s calendar, we were successful. And like that first bite of Tatiana’s oxtail and crab rangoon, it all proved worth the wait because the Bronx-born Onwuachi cooked up thoughtful takes on his culinary journey, his love for golf and his favorite places to eat around the nation’s capital.
You’ve talked about your journey from New York to Nigeria and back to the top of New York’s culinary scene. What are the things along this journey that put the widest smiles on your face?
I would say being able to take care of my mom. My family and friends are the biggest things that make me smile, for sure. I don’t think [my happiness] is associated with any accolade. It’s just that I’ve worked really hard to get to where I’m at. Being able to be surrounded by so many people that I care about and make sure that they’re good [makes me happy].
Among the culinary events all over the world, what was it that attracted you to SAVOR in Texas?
I’ve been a partner with [festival sponsor] Lexus for probably half a decade at this point. We have a really good relationship. I’m also a huge fan of golf. So, it was a no-brainer for me. It was like a win-win.
Tell me a little bit about this love of golf.
My friend in L.A. introduced me to the game. I just really got enamored with the stillness of it, of how you have to be so focused. And I think I found some parallels in my actual life. It’s something that is my therapy. That’s the thing that keeps me Zen. And I just love being out there also in nature. It’s really beautiful.
How often do you get out there to play?
It’s been cold in New York, so not too much [lately]. But I play often. I probably play a couple times a week, in the morning.
I know you’re participating in SAVOR’s celebrity golf tournament. Culinary-wise, what will you be doing at the event?
I’m doing a [Fork & Fire] dinner with a bunch of chefs. I’ll be making hamachi guisado, which is based off of a Hispanic stew, but I’ve made that stew into a crudo sauce. I put olives and red onion and cilantro in it. It’s going to be really, really good and really refreshing in that heat.
Chef, what are the common threads between a dining experience at Tatiana and one at Dōgon?
I would say both experiences are a cultural throughline showcasing Afro-Caribbean cuisine.
If you were showing me around D.C. for a day, where would we eat and what would we do in town?
We would start the day at the Call Your Mother Deli for an everything bagel with lox and cream cheese. From there, we would head to and spend a few hours at the National Museum of African American History and Culture. We’d hit Chercher for lunch and play nine holes of golf at East Potomac Golf Course. We would wrap up the day with dinner at Albi and drinks at Copycat Co.
