One of Italy’s most scenic drives is the SS145, a roadway that takes you out of Naples, along the base of Vesuvius, toward Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast. The 30-mile stretch skirts the water and winds around vertiginous terraces, Technicolor crags and pastel-hued towns, backdropped by soaring mountains.
The iconic Amalfi Coast has lured travelers for centuries, making the area one of the most sought-after locations in the world. But just because it’s a popular destination, that does not mean you should skip Sorrento; you just need to be a bit savvy with your vacation planning.
Here’s how to best enjoy this legendary coast:
Where to Stay
If you want to feel the grandeur of the grand tour (a journey taken in the 18th and 19th centuries by the British elite to learn about different cultures), then there is nothing like the Forbes Travel Guide Recommended Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria. The property is a captivating blend of contrasts. Situated on Sorrento’s lively Piazza Tasso, it offers prime people-watching while providing seclusion and stunning sunset views on five acres of parkland.
The hotel, which celebrates its 190th anniversary in 2024, is rumored to stand on the site of Emperor Augustus’ ancient summer villa. Over the years, it has hosted icons like Marilyn Monroe, Sophia Loren and Jack Lemmon, along with royalty, politicians and artists who frequented the hotel during the grand tour, making it a timeless favorite.
For a quiet escape, try Hotel Mediterraneo. On the edge of Sorrento, this hotel has the best views of Vesuvius and the bay, and its vibe is updated art deco (see: Gatsby on the edge). Likewise, the location is just far enough from the Sorrentine crowds (which can transform the town into a busy mall) to feel slightly off the beaten path.
What to Do
If you want to hang out like an Italian, reserve your spaceat one of the floating beach clubs like La Marinella in Sorrento. By scoring a sdraio (deck chair), you get an all-day affair of seaside lounging with full service. Beach clubs also have local restaurants, so you do not need to leave for your spritz and spaghetti con vongole. Don’t forget to head to Siniscalchi in Sorrento to pick out your custom sandals.
The Sentiero degli Dei (Path of Gods) is the historic mountaintop hike that was the villages’ connecting route. The four-mile trail begins in Bomerano, an ancient area where fields were carved from forests, now visible as terraced landscapes and passes above Praiano, before descending into Positano, where you can celebrate the stretch with a drink at Forbes Travel Guide Five-Star Le Sirenuse’s splendid terrace bar or a waterside meal at Chez Black. Just know that the hike typically takes three to four hours and is best done early in the day.
Some of the world’s most famous Roman ruins are a drive (or train ride) away. You’re just across the bay from Vesuvius, meaning that Pompeiiis but a short trip. Swing big and get the three-day ticket, which also gives you access to Oplontis, Stabiae’s Villa Adrianna and Villa San Marco, all luxurious Roman villas that succumbed to Vesuvius. If you’re worried about travel, the complimentary Artebus shuttle links all locations.
Find more history in the area by exploring the less-visited archaeological area Herculaneum (a Roman city buried under Vesuvius’ massive pyroclastic flow) and the ancient Greek sites of Paestum and Velia.
Where to Eat and Drink
Living la dolce vita may be spontaneous, but when it comes to eating and drinking on the Amalfi Coast, it’s best not to be left to chance. To max out your sunset and Vesuvius views, you’ll want to book a table at Hotel Mediterraneo’s Vista Sky Bar and Vesuvio Restaurant.
Follow the coast for a few hairpin bends to Marina di Equa, and you’ll find an old fortress tower just off the sea. Inside this 14th-century tower is the kingdom of Campania’s reigning top chef, Gennaro Esposito and his acclaimed restaurant La Torre del Saracino. The history, architecture and sea panoramas make it romantic, while Esposito’s creative takes on traditional dishes take it over the top.
When it’s time for a sweet treat, Vico Equense’s Cremeria Gabriele is the Amalfi Coast’s best gelateria. Owned and run by the Cuomo family for the past 70 years, the parlor offers a classic atmosphere and flavors — like the angelic yogurt served in a brioche with fresh berries. Here’s where you’ll also want to grab a bàbà, the region’s emblematic pastry.
The Amalfi Coast has amazing restaurants, each giving a great excuse to traverse the territory. There’s the charming Baccofuore in Furore and Positano’s classic beachside restaurant Chez Black. For the real spaghetti al nerano (a local dish made with fried zucchini and provolone cheese), there’s no place like Zagherà in Nerano. Amalfi’s Trattoria da Gemma is another gem with a delightful cantina and seafood-focused menu. Enjoy delicious scialatielli with veraci clams, Cetara bluefin tuna and Gemma’s signature fish soup. And, of course, we’d be remiss to omit Aldo’s Cocktail Bar, Le Sirenuse’s gorgeous rooftop bar.
Getting Around
Take the road slightlyless traveled. Most visitors to the Amalfi Coast come from Naples International Airport or Napoli Centrale train station. To avoid the crowds, either take the train to Salerno or fly into the new Salerno Costa d’Amalfi Airport, which opened in 2024.
The Amalfi Coast comprises 16 municipalities, all of which tend to swell with tourists in the warm months. Amalfi, Positano and Sorrento are the big draws, while Cetara, Nerano, Scala and Atrani are a bit quieter. The towns are charming, and whether you want to see them all or just a few, getting around is relatively easy. You can taxi, ferry, get a car or, if you’d like to live out a scene from your favorite Italian movie, rent a scooter.
