The calendar may keep turning, but dreams of an Italian summer never go out of season. The Amalfi Coast is the stuff of cinematic fantasy: dramatic cliffs plunging into the Mediterranean; a tourist peering over a pair of cat-eye sunglasses like a ’60s starlet; and candlelit dinners shared on a terrace as the sun sinks into the sea.
You’ll find all of this and more in Positano, one of the Amalfi Coast’s most celebrated towns. Immortalized in movies such as The Talented Mr. Ripley and Under the Tuscan Sun, the area is filled with hotels, restaurants and other family-run businesses that proudly embrace the spirit of dolce vita (“the sweet life”). Whether you plan to enjoy Positano’s shoulder season or are already making next summer’s plans, we’ve created the perfect two-day itinerary for your stay.
Day One
Start your Positano getaway at Hotel Villa Franca. The 38-room, family-run hotel boasts an enviable panoramic perch with a collection of contemporary art to rival the view. The former private home still offers the same feeling of intimacy, thanks to a perceptive staff, who will go above and beyond to make any sun-drenched Amalfi Coast fantasy a reality; the distinctly decorated rooms spread across the property’s two villas; and thoughtful touches such as a complimentary breakfast served on your room’s private terrace.
Once you’ve settled in and, perhaps, enjoyed a refreshing dip in Positano’s highest pool, it’s time to put on your walking shoes — the cliffside town is famous for its steep staircases — and shop for all the accessories required for your dolce vita moment. Peruse the bounty of stores lining the alleyways of Positano’s city center for made-to-measure leather sandals, linens and other specialty souvenirs.
Wandering is encouraged, but a few must-stops include Forbes Travel Guide Five-Star Le Sirenuse’s impeccably curated boutique and Emporio Sirenuse for resort wear. Another suggested detour is Artigianato Rallo, whose leather sandals are handmade in 30 minutes or less by the store’s expert cobbler. You pick your desired material, strap shape and color for a one-of-a-kind keepsake. For unique jewelry, look no further than Teresa Boutique.
Dinner at Le Sirenuse’s La Sponda makes for an extraordinarily enchanting evening. The mint tablecloths perfectly match the hue of the foaming sea below. Franco and Andrea, the hotel’s longtime musicians, strum their guitars and mandolin while suspended candles cast the scene in a magical glow. The food here, too, is unforgettable. Executive chef Gennaro Russo’s refined elegance shines with deceptively simple dishes like pasta al pomodoro, branzino and lemon caper risotto.
Make sure to leave time to look around this jewel box of a hotel, with art tucked in nearly every corner. Peek at the lacquered carriage once used to cart Italian nobility up Positano’s steep hills, displayed in the lobby. Linger for a nightcap at the lamp-lit, speakeasy-style Don’t Worry Bar, named for artist Martin Creed’s neon sign hanging from the ceiling. Settle into one of the stuffed club chairs as a DJ spins from an impressive vinyl collection. But be prepared — you’ll likely be tempted to hop up on the dance floor.
Day Two
After savoring your breakfast on the terrace, ponder whether you’d prefer to explore the coast by land or sea. Whichever you choose, Hotel Villa Franca has a meticulously designed itinerary for you. If you yearn to cruise through the hills with a silk scarf fluttering in the wind, the hotel’s Dolce Vita experience will make this dream happen. Guests staying longer than two nights can indulge in the hotel’s exclusive vintage car experience, taking the classic vehicle for a self-guided journey along the cinematic coast’s hairpin turns, perhaps pausing to stroll in the fragrant lemon groves or one of the equally charming villages for lunch. The property also offers a luxury boat tour, if the glistening sea proves too irresistible.
Be sure to arrange a stop for lunch at Lo Scoglio, the above-water restaurant considered one of the best on the coast, amid stiff competition. Here, you’ll experience the Amalfi Coast at its finest, with a relaxed beach-club atmosphere and an elevated meal. To say that the ingredients are fresh would be an understatement. The produce served is grown by the same family that has run the establishment for three generations. Fishermen bring the catch of the day to the restaurant’s dock every morning.
Begin with the family starter, a table of individual platters of gently fried zucchini flowers, melt-in-your-mouth mozzarella, a copper skillet of sautéed vegetables, impossibly flavorful tomatoes and succulent grilled octopus. Leave the main course to whatever made-from-scratch pasta your server suggests. You won’t regret it.
After a day of eating and enjoying the sights, rest in your room or make a return splash at the pool. Either way, you won’t have to go far for the evening’s plans. Toast to a postcard-ready sunset with a cocktail at the hotel’s O’RO Incanto Lounge Cocktail Bar & Òsteria. The lounge is poised atop a cliff, overlooking the orange umbrellas lining the beach below. Sip on the bar’s creative riff on a Lemon Drop (a nod to the Amalfi’s famous limoncello), a drink made with Grey Goose Citron, yuzu, lemon juice and limoncello foam.
If the big midday meal has started to wear off, stay for dinner with a view of the chef preparing dishes in the osteria’s open kitchen. Simplicity shines with artfully prepared pastas, like a ragù that’s been simmering in a heady beef sauce since the morning. And it’s only fitting to conclude your weekend with a literal taste of the sweet life in the form of fluffy tiramisù.
