Hornstull used to be known as one of the least charming streets in Stockholm. However, the plaza outside of the Hornstull mall and the terrace on top of it, has given Långholmsgatan a much-needed open space. To be able to have – and enjoy – a coffee a few stories above the street was unthinkable before the mall, designed by the architect firm Wester+Elsner, opened up.
Hornstull, located in the most western part of Södermalm (a central district in Stockholm), was well-known for its cafés such as Café Dello Sport, which opened up in 1996, and soon became a favorite among soccer aficionados and latte lovers alike. But the area only started to get popular to hipsters in the early 2000s because apartments went for a cheaper rate than what could be found in the rest of Södermalm.
Now, in 2013, Hornstull is a place for everyone.
It started last autumn with the restaurant Linje Tio (often called Tjoget) immediately attracting sophisticated professionals in the area who didn’t have a go-to place to hang out in Hornstull. Today, it’s something of Södermalm’s answer to the business oriented classic Riche at Stureplan: a functioning combination of fine dining and bar talk. The big bar in the middle of the room looks like it’s been stolen right out of a Paris zinc café, but is usually only visible in the afternoons as Linje Tio is always crowded at night. As well as its bar, the menu seeks inspiration from the southern part of Europe, including countries such as France and Italy. Favorites are the grilled ribs (from an ox), served with roots and turnips, and the great plate of charcuteries including Porchetta, Ventricina, Daniele and more.
For those who mind the chatter, there’s an alternative right next door — Hornhuset, which stretches across all three stories of the Hornstull mall. Each level of Hornhuset has a different specialty. On top, there’s Enzo’s – an Italian soccer trattoria, which serves pizzas, and has several flat-screen TVs perfect for catching a game or two. The second floor is home to Hornhusets krog, an upscale restaurant sporting a modern design with slanted floor-to-ceiling windows and wooden tables with white seating. Inside krog, diners can find dishes such as roasted fennel and baked turbot, lemon marinated herring, king crab and more. And on the first floor, Torget, is open as a café or for lunch (with grilled chicken, deli sandwiches, wine and more) and has seats out on the plaza.
Also in the the mall is Gateau, one of the city’s most popular bakeries thanks to its sour dough bread selection, which features a wide range of ingredients such as apricots and hazelnut, and cheese and olives.
The restaurant and store Taylor & Jones with the Twist has an enormous selection of sausages (which they make themselves) including their own take on bratwurst (beef and pork sausage with black pepper, ginger, nutmeg and mustard seed), lamb merguez (lamb sausage with harissa, cinnamon and cumin) and pork sausage with apples.
The mall also has a wide selection of shops. Akademibokhandeln is Sweden’s answer to Barnes & Noble, Blue Jeans Company sells high-quality denim from Levi’s Vintage Clothing and others, and Designers Loft carries clothes from Marc Jacobs, Denim & Supply by Ralph Lauren, Nolita and Mos Mosh.
For drinks, stay at Linje Tio or go to Calexico’s, which is down by the water at Hornstulls strand. They serve food such as fajitas, flautas (flour tortillas) and more, but are mostly known for their wide selection of tequila drinks such as margaritas and imported Mexican beers. The restaurant is a part of the Debaser empire, which owns the popular rock club Debaser Medis and eatery Malmö.
Just outside Calexico’s, the Hornstull market opens on Sundays at 11 a.m. with a fleet of the city’s (newly legalized) food trucks. Bun Bun serves delicious Vietnamese baguettes with a variety of stuffings, and Fred’s Food Truck has a particularly popular pulled pork sandwich. But the tacos at the pink El Taco Truck are the most famous — so be sure to try the local favorite: the Coca Cola-marinated carnitas.
Photos Courtesy of Linus Flodin