Private clubs such as Soho House, Zero Bond and Casa Cipriani cemented a long-held Manhattan tradition of the city’s elite clamoring for exclusive spaces. Of course, there will always be the old vanguard — like the Yale Club, Harvard Club and New York Yacht Club — but freshly unwrapped Centurion New York towers over many high-end hideaways from its lavish perch on the 55th floor of the One Vanderbilt building.
The elusive, invitation-only American Express Centurion card (commonly called “the Black Card”) has become a status symbol for the modern day, much like a membership to one of the aforementioned clubs was some years ago. Unlike many of those discreet dens, though, anyone can make a dinner reservation for the Centurion club — no Black Card necessary (but availability is scarce, so you will have to check often).
When Centurion New York made its grand debut in the spring of 2023, it marked a significant shift for American Express in that it was a space that ventured beyond the brand’s ballyhooed airport lounges. The company chose a remarkable venue for the unveiling, too. The One Vanderbilt, a 1,400-foot skyscraper, is the tallest commercial building in Midtown Manhattan. Daniel Boulud’s Forbes Travel Guide Four-Star Le Pavillion resides on the second floor. And SUMMIT, an immersive, four-story observation deck, provides breathtaking vistas from the top three floors.
Getting up to the Centurion club is the first bit of secretive fun you have at the address. You check in with security before swiping your QR code — you’ll get this once you make your difficult-to-come-by dinner reservation on Resy — through the turnstile that directs you to elevators. As you’re whisked up to the 55th floor, the windowless lift heightens anticipation. Once the doors open, all of Manhattan is at your feet — or at least as much as can be captured in the club’s floor-to-ceiling windows.
It’s impossible to underscore the million-dollar view. The club’s positioning affords vistas of all five boroughs. Two Manhattan icons, the Empire State Building and the Chrysler Building, flank the right and left sides of the club, with windows running along the perimeter wall.
Once you finish gasping, get comfortable in the Yabu Pushelberg-designed club’s reception area, The Salon. Members or guests with reservations can relax before or after their meal with drinks, desserts and light bites. The artwork helps facilitate the living-room atmosphere with a collection of iconic New York photographs of famous faces as easily recognizable as any family photo album.
The other half of the space contains ultra-modern art, as if the home’s owner had a change of design heart mid-renovation. A black Rothko-esque painting and black cloth cocktail napkins cleverly call the Black Card to your subconscious. Comfortable modular furniture ensures the space feels cohesive and inviting. You can as easily imagine lingering here over after-dinner drinks or a between-emails Perrier.
After your time at The Salon is over, enter Boulud’s delicious world. Both The Studio and The Gallery’s epicurean experiences are overseen by the iconic chef. The Studio serves a casual but unmistakably elegant ambiance to guests. It’s 100 percent Boulud, but à la carte.
Tempting starters from the most recent spring menu included the pan-fried fairy-tale eggplant served with maple lemon labneh, crispy shallots and scallion oil and a decadent wagyu sirloin tartare done with waffle chips.
Amid The Studio’s black tabletops and the window-side banquette, a sleek, long, silver-topped bar runs along the interior. The cocktails alone are worth the cost of turning your back on the Empire State Building, if only for a little while. For a complete sensory serenade, stop by for live jazz on Fridays.
As you round the corner, a transition to the more formal Gallery can be felt. The Studio’s abstract art gives way to more concrete works. Immaculate white tablecloths draping over the tables further illustrate a change in mood and menu.
But don’t be mistaken; The Gallery is far from fussy. This is an impressive feat, considering how a trio of Ossetra caviar is an optional starter and elaborate dishes such as Argentine red prawns served with a buttermilk, horseradish and pine medley or mint-flavored lamb highlight the five-course tasting menu.
In addition to the Boulud-stamped cuisine, The Gallery cooks up one of the city’s most impressive peeks at the Chrysler Building. When you’re standing at the hallway’s entrance, at the table nearest The Studio, the Chrysler Building almost seems within touching distance, but as you walk closer to the landmark, it actually appears to get farther away. It is a clever optical illusion and a subtle reminder that, even from Manhattan’s top, there will always be something just out of reach.
In this case, if you don’t have a membership, it’s the Centurion club’s other half of the floor that proves just beyond your fingertips. This private portion features a member’s bar, a wine cellar, an event space and an ultra-exclusive pink-hued bar that’s rumored to be reserved for the Centurion club’s top-tier members.
But Black Card holder or not, the dining experience is the same and the staff offers everyone impeccable service. So, even if it takes you a few extra times to secure a reservation because you’re not in American Express’ upper echelon, seek comfort knowing that this club rewards the determined.
