Sicily has always been a seductress, even long before The White Lotus turned Taormina into a stage set for bedroom trysts and Aperol spritzes. From Cicero and Goethe to Dolce & Gabbana, this incredible Mediterranean island has captivated its guests with its landscape, food and undeniable hospitality.
We’ve been coming to Sicilia for years, but lately something’s shifted. There’s buzz, yes, but also renewed attention to the kind of slow, layered travel Sicily deserves. It’s not a one-stop destination; it’s an unfolding adventure. And for some, that unfolding often starts with the impossible question: the east or west side of the island? We’ll take both, especially when the trips come with a suite in Taormina and a palace in Palermo.
East Side Glamour: Where to Go in Taormina
If Sicily were an opera, Taormina would be its high note. And Forbes Travel Guide Four-Star Grand Hotel Timeo, A Belmond Hotel, Taormina would be the royal box where you’d be dressed in your very best, enjoying a Sunset Spritz at Bar Timeo, while Mount Etna smolders in the background. Every view is epic, from the terraced gardens to the sea. There’s even an ancient Greek theater in the backyard. Consider Grand Hotel Timeo the front row to Sicily, where you can spend hours lounging in the terrace.
Down the road is the diva, Four-Star San Domenico Palace, Taormina, a Four Seasons Hotel, the sumptuous property that was The White Lotus’ season two backdrop. A former 14th-century convent, San Domenico was reborn as a palatial cliffside retreat, and it does not disappoint with beautifully manicured gardens, sweeping vistas of the Ionian Sea, fabulous fine dining and, of course, a stylish piano bar just like in the hit HBO show.
For less-buttoned-up luxury, head to sea level. Consider Four-Star Villa Sant’Andrea, A Belmond Hotel, Taormina Mare to be Grand Hotel Timeo’s sun-kissed younger sibling. It’s the kind of place where you fall asleep to the sound of the waves and wake up with salt in your hair.
Ristorante Sant’Andrea is one of the prettiest beachside eateries in Italy and heavily showcases Sicily’s love for seafood and creativity with dishes such as shellfish-topped, Verdello lemon-accompanied pasta. The luxe address has its own beach club, Lido Villeggiatura, with a fabulous menu of boating and watersports, along with its coveted lettini (beach beds). And around the corner is Isola Bella, the postcard-perfect islet that’s reachable by foot in low tide.
No matter which hotel you check into, you can easily wander about in Taormina. The Greek Theatre is ideal for a summer performance while an Etna excursion for vineyard visits or ATV rides is an unforgettable experience. Additionally, baroque cities such as Modica and Noto, gorgeous Ortigia and the ancient Greek and Roman ruins of Siracusa are all worth exploring.
Discovering West Sicily: Palaces and History in Palermo
To many, Sicily’s west coast is the best coast. Whereas Taormina wows you with its fairytale beauty, Palermo, the island’s capital city, entices with its liveliness. Thousands of years of history converge in a bustling metropolis here, so you’ll want to stay in the peaceful oasis that is Four-Star Villa Igiea, a Rocco Forte Hotel, a grande dame that was rebooted by the London-based brand in 2021.
Once a Belle Époque hideaway for Sicilian aristocracy, Villa Igiea has been restored with reverence. Frescoed ceilings, marble staircases, carved wood ornaments, Liberty-style curves and a vintage bar send you back to the turn of the century. A gorgeous garden delivers unencumbered views of sea and marina along with breakfast.
You could spend a lifetime in Palermo — we’ve tried. But however long you’re on the island, take your time and follow the detours. Enjoy the vibrant mosaics of the Cappella Palatina. Head over to the Ballarò market to haggle for sundried tomatoes. Meander the history-filled Quattro Canti and then walk Via della Libertà. Daytrips include coastal Mondello for a swim and Gibellina for a look at il Cretto, Europe’s largest land artwork.
The Heart of Sicily: Wineries, Ruins and Resorts Between the Coasts
You could drive from Taormina to Palermo in a few hours, but why rush when the in-between is where Sicily really sings? Whether you’re into vineyards, ancient ruins or tiny towns, there’s always a place to pause, sip and stay.
If you’re heading south-southwest, check into La Foresteria, the Planeta family’s boutique wine resort in Menfi. Renowned for its stellar hospitality and garden-to-table cuisine, a stay here is a lovely reward after a morning exploring the mosaics of Piazza Armerina.
If you’re temple-hopping through Agrigento, make your base Villa Athena. Set on the edge of the archaeological park, this neoclassical gem overlooks the Valley of the Temples — it’s so close you can almost read ancient inscriptions from your balcony. Waking up to a sunrise over Concordia’s columns is something you won’t forget.
Further west, Four-Star Verdura Resort, A Rocco Forte Hotel sprawls elegantly across rocky beaches, olive groves and Mediterranean coastline near Sciacca. This all-inclusive getaway includes Irene Forte Spa, golf and soccer camps. The resort makes it tough to leave, but it is an easy drive to the Selinunte archaeology site with its impressive Greek temples.
If you’re hugging the northern coast, don’t miss Le Calette in Cefalù. This chic escape with San Domenico Palace vibes and Tyrrhenian Sea views helps give away Sicily’s biggest secret — magic isn’t reserved to the east or the west; it’s the entire island.
