Forbes Travel Guide Stories

Fashion, Interviews

Shop Sustainable Cowboy Chic In Fort Worth

Jackie and Rodger Chieffalo inside their luxury Western boutique. Credit: Kathy Tran

This story begins with a beaver felt hat. Over the years, the stylish topper grew synonymous with Fort Worth, Texas, thanks to Amon Carter, a turn-of-the-century businessman who designed the short-brimmed hat and gave them away by the thousands to U.S. presidents, British royalty and movie stars.

One such hat was left in a family member’s will to Rodger Chieffalo, a commercial real estate developer in Fort Worth, and it sparked a love for reimagining vintage Western wear. What was once a hobby for Chieffalo has evolved into Chieffalo Americana, a luxury Western boutique he runs today with his wife and business partner, Jackie. They recently debuted a second location: a pop-up inside the new Bowie House, Auberge Resorts Collection running through September 2025 that sells one-of-a-kind creations and upcycled items, such as suede fringe jackets, “wild rags” and cowboy boots from independent makers.

We recently sat down with the couple to discuss the brand’s origin story, its approach to sustainable fashion and the role Bowie House plays in it all.

A wall of the famous hats. Credit: Kathy Tran

What was the initial inspiration for Chieffalo Americana?

Jackie: We are inspired by Amon Carter who was really the biggest character to come out of Fort Worth.

Rodger: Amon Carter was this West Texas salesman who came to Fort Worth and went to work for one of the two newspapers at the turn of the century. Ultimately, he merged those two papers into one and built them into the largest newspaper in circulation in the Western United States.

He was an endlessly energetic promoter of Fort Worth and all things Western. He figured out the way to put Fort Worth on the map was to court the CEOs and the presidents of the biggest corporations in America, as well as the senators, the congressmen and the presidents of the United States. He created the signature beaver felt hats in 1920. He would give the hats to any VIP who came to Fort Worth, including all the presidents from Grover Cleveland to Dwight Eisenhower.

When Amon Carter died, the city carried the torch from that point forward and gave these hats to all the presidents who ever came to Fort Worth, including John F. Kennedy, on the morning that he was shot and killed in Dallas.   

Sustainable fashion has become a huge trend. Do you position yourselves as a sustainable clothing brand?   

Jackie: It might seem like sustainability is a trend, but I see it as more of a revival. That’s how we grew up. In the ’60s and ’70s, everyone had patches on their jeans, and you’d wear them until they fell apart. Once they fell apart, my mom, for example, would make a quilt. So, yes, our brand is green because it keeps things out of landfills. There are warehouses in Los Angeles full of bolts and bolts of amazing fabric, just sitting there, rotting. 

Rodger:We’re looking back to an era when quality things were made in America. It was in the early- to mid-’70s when manufacturing started getting sent abroad [that things changed]. So many of the items we carry or rebuild have come from the ’50s, ’60s and early ’70s. Those items are better made than items today. You have young people today, after 30 or 40 years of fast fashion, who want something that is one of a kind and better made. They don’t want 50 items. They want one or two quality items.

Jackie: We have a lot of local makers who make one-of-a-kind things. We feel like that’s the ultimate luxury. Anyone can get a Goyard bag or go into Louis Vuitton. There are great dupes out there. But the sense of luxury is buying something you can’t get anywhere else. That’s who our customer is, the person who appreciates that. [Bowie House owner] Jo Ellard gets it, and when we moved into that space as a pop-up, it felt like home. The hotel’s geared for community and storytelling, so we felt like the perfect fit.

Rodger: If you think of the design of that hotel, it’s got a lot of antiques, one-of-a-kind things you don’t see anywhere else. The art collection is one of a kind and always changing. It’s part of the fiber of that hotel. It’s an ever-changing, ever-evolving environment that embraces vintage items.  

Jackie: The hotel’s scene is a mix of locals and visitors, so we can tell these stories to people who are coming from far away. People come to the hotel because they love all the Auberge properties, and we get to capture that audience.  

Rodger: We feel an obligation to represent our city accurately.

A curated collection of cowboy chic fashion. Credit: Kathy Tran

You’ve said that the brand began as a “hobby gone wild.” Could you tell the rest of Chieffalo Americana’s origin story?

Rodger: I was never a hat wearer. Most men now feel uncomfortable wearing anything but a baseball cap. About 20 years ago, a family member died and willed me his hat, made in a local hat store and designed by Amon Carter. I felt honored to have been given the hat and obligated to renovate it because it was in bad shape. It was like a brand-new hat when I got it back. I started wearing it and getting comments around town about how much people liked the hat.

My primary business is commercial real estate development. Still, I thought I was going to find these old hats here and everywhere around Fort Worth, and I was going to renovate them and give them to my investors as a way of saying thank you for doing business with me. My business is primarily in Fort Worth, so I thought it would be a clever gift.

After I went through all my investors, I gave them to my tenants when they signed leases with me. I started giving them to family and friends. I gave away several hundred hats before it got to the point where I needed to start selling them.

I had started making and collecting vintage cufflinks from vintage jewelry and old Western belt buckles and rebuilding them. And then along came Jackie with her fashion background. Four years ago, we decided to open the store.

Jackie: And get married! 

Rodger: We combined our talents and knowledge to build a men’s and women’s clothing store. We started buying more categories of clothing items: vintage coats, selected vintage boots and belt straps. We also started buying new, American-made clothes from small makers: denim made in L.A., Western pearl-snap shirts made in Phoenix and Pendleton coats made in New York City.

It’s evident you were able to combine your talents. How did the collaboration with the Bowie House come about?

Rodger: Bowie House does an excellent job of representing Fort Worth in a stylish, upscale and thoughtful way. They found us and saw that we could provide that experience in a store. When we went to Bowie House, we rethought everything that we took to that store and asked, “What would represent the town of Fort Worth best? What are the items that guests need in that hotel? How can we accommodate those customers?”

That selection of offerings in the hotel is certainly a little different than what we have in the [standalone] store. Bowie House recognized that and saw that we made a genuine effort not just to bring what we had in the store. As a result, they rewarded us with an extended stay. We started as a three-month pop-up and have been there for a year and a half.

One of the shop’s eye-catching belt buckles. Credit: Kathy Tran

What’s the best-selling item at the Bowie House store?

Rodger:As a category, women’s clothing and the items we specifically made for the hotel.  

Jackie: Women are in the mood to shop when they are in a great hotel. They’ve gone to the spa and out by the pool, so I said we need some caftans. They have a pool there! I wanted easy things that you could mix with a pair of low cowboy boots for a caftan, cowgirl kind of thing, where you could breeze down to Bricks and Horses and be good to go for dinner. We listened to the clients. For example, the Bowie House has a game room, so people would go in and ask if we sold decks of playing cards. We didn’t. But two days later, I asked my sources, and now, we have playing cards with a rodeo theme.

Rodger: We change the merchandise to fit each season in Fort Worth. For example, during the time of year when families come through to do something at Texas Christian University, we take a vintage buckle and put a little horned frog [mascot] icon on it.

Jackie: It’s such fun to wear something to the game that isn’t bookstore swag.

What do you imagine the next chapter of Chieffalo Americana will look like?

Rodger: We would love to do more pop-up stores in other regions of the country, expressing the fashion, style, history and heritage of those places.

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Celebrities, Sports

Brewers Star Devin Williams Pitches Milwaukee As A Fall Vacation Spot

Williams is ready for fall baseball and a winter break. Credit: Scott Paulus/Milwaukee Brewers

We don’t want to jinx things by talking too loudly, but this might be the year for the Milwaukee Brewers. A proud franchise that hasn’t been to the World Series since 1982, the Brew Crew is putting together a remarkable season that some around MLB are thinking could end with a confetti-filled parade along North Water Street.

Outside of sluggers Willy Adames and William Contreras, a central reason for so much confidence inside American Family Field these days is the pitching of Devin Williams, a two-time all-star with one incredible changeup. Though the 2020 National League Rookie of the Year was out for months with stress fractures in his back, the St. Louis native triumphantly returned in late July and hasn’t missed a beat in the Brewers’ bullpen.

While Williams’ focus is squarely on striking out opponents, Forbes Travel Guide recently learned about some other things on the hurler’s mind, like great Milwaukee restaurants, must-haves in his travel bag and vacation spots he’d like to visit once the season ends — which, if Brewers fans have their way, won’t be until mid-November.

The Brewers need the two-time NL Reliever of the Year to stay sharp. Credit: Scott Paulus/Milwaukee Brewers

How far are these Brewers capable of going this year?

Honestly, I think once we’re back at full health, I think we could compete with anybody. Our pitching is still getting healthier. The same with our lineup. You saw what we did these past three days in Atlanta — and we didn’t even have [star outfielder] Christian Yelich. If we get everybody back healthy, we have a decent shot at this.

I think what’s been special about this year is just the team, the vibe that we have together, the close-knit clubhouse that we have. We’ve had good clubhouses in the past, but I feel like this one’s even a little more special because we have a good mesh of veterans and young guys. We’re all close. We all hold each other accountable. Other teams don’t have that. You start heading down the wrong path and it just spirals out of control on you. This whole year, we’ve had those blips happen and we’re able to correct it.

Do you get to explore cities when you’re on the road during the season?

It kind of depends. Like, if we have an off day, then I’ll definitely get out there and immerse myself in the city. But typically, I don’t usually leave the hotel too much unless it’s to go get food in the morning. Then I go back to the hotel and we’re off to the field.

Which MLB city do you like visiting for a good meal?

I always love going to Chicago. We typically play day games there because we’re playing the Cubs. So, we get a chance to get out in the city after the game and go explore some restaurants and things like that. That’s kind of different from what our usual schedule is.

But I definitely [enjoy visiting] New York, L.A., all the big cities and just try to have fun there while we can.

Williams’ biggest fans live in St. Louis. Credit: iStock-f11photo

How is it when you go home to St. Louis?

No, I don’t really have a choice in that one because of my mom and my grandparents. I always have to go out to dinner with them. Breakfast is easier because we don’t really get done [playing] until like 10 at night, so most stuff would be closed. We’ll do breakfast before the game.

With 81 road games during the season, does all the packing and unpacking ever get draining?

Personally, I’ve never viewed it as stressful. I think the fact that we’re in a different city every three to four days kind of keeps everything fresh. It’s a different environment, a new environment. Everything just seems more interesting when you’re not seeing it day after day after day, you know? So, that’s never been an issue with me.

As far as packing goes, I’ll lay out my outfits before we leave. I already know what I’m going to wear before we even unpack in the next city.

What’s something that always travels with you?

An assortment of shoes. The most time-consuming thing that I do before I leave on a trip is picking out which shoes I want. I’ll always have my sunglasses, too, and some type of cologne. Lately, I’ve been wearing Chanel 1957.

Dorsia is one of Williams’ favorite Milwaukee restaurants. Credit: First Station Media

The NBA feels like a fashion show. Things seem much more laid-back in MLB.

I would say in general, yeah, it’s way more casual. But that’s just people’s different personalities. But there’s definitely a couple guys that still like to throw on the [cool] fits. Like Willy — Willy’s always fresh. Freddy Peralta always got a good fit on. I try to come correct as well.

What makes the city of Milwaukee special in your eyes?

I feel like it’s kind of a bigger city, but it has a small-town feel. It’s just very laid-back here. It kind of has a calming presence.

If I were visiting the city for the first time, what would you do to give me a proper taste of Milwaukee?

There are some good restaurants. I’ll try to take you to a few of my favorites, like Carnevor or Dorsia. [The latter] is a good Italian spot. There’s some good mom-and-pop restaurants around here.

And then you gotta go by the lake, of course. Here on Lake Michigan, we got a little beach. You can go walk the trail along the lakefront. But I don’t really get out in the city that much.

South Africa is high on Williams’ must-visit list. Credit: iStock-Vart

I know you envision playing well into October and November, but do you already have some winter vacation plans mapped out?

I’ve thought about a few places, but I haven’t locked anything in yet. This offseason I was considering maybe South Africa or Japan. I haven’t decided yet. They’re very different, but I haven’t been to either of those continents yet.

I highly recommend both. Now, of the places you have been, where wouldn’t you mind going again?

I would say London, but that’s the easy answer. I’ve gone back there like four or five times now. Every time we go, we explore different pockets of the city. You can always find something new there because it’s such a big city. I’ve been infatuated with London ever since I was a kid. Growing up watching Premier League [soccer], that was just a place that I always wanted to go and experience what it was like to live there. I loved it so much the first time that I just keep going back.

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Attractions and Landmarks, Guide

How To Spend Two Days In Naples

Stroll through Chiaia, a charming area in Naples. Credit: iStock- Eddy Galeotti

Welcome to Chiaia, the Napoli neighborhood known as the salotto (living room) for its beautiful style, relaxed elegance and seaside location. While Naples is famous for its pizza, Chiaia offers a different look at the city. If you have 48 hours to explore southern Italy’s most dynamic area, this is the perfect itinerary for taking in a weekend of art, indulgence and modern Neapolitan charm.

A perfect day for exploring Naples. Credit: Erica Firpo

Day One

There’s no better place to anchor your stay than the luxurious Grand Hotel Parker’s. “Chiaia was originally the seaside retreat for Naples’ elite,” says Giovanni Torre Avallone, owner of Grand Hotel Parker’s, whose impeccably tailored style perfectly reflects the neighborhood’s flair. “By the mid-18th century, it evolved into the city’s cultural heart, with stunning theaters, cafes and boutiques. Here, you’ll find some of the most beautiful architecture showcasing centuries of Neapolitan history and the world’s finest tailors.” And Avallone should know—he dons a custom Neapolitan suit daily, and his family has called Chiaia home for more than a century.

Perched on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Grand Hotel Parker’s embodies Neapolitan elegance. With impeccable concierge service, a blend of Empire-style antiques, contemporary design (including pieces from the Avallone family’s collection) and stunning harbor views, it’s the perfect setting for an elegant escape.

One of Italy’s oldest coffee houses. Credit: iStock-lucamato

Once settled in your sea-view suite, venture down to Via delle Mille and Via Chiaia, where historic streets are lined with high-end boutiques, art galleries, artisan shops and bustling cafés. Walk to Gambrinus, one of Italy’s oldest coffee houses, for an authentic taste of city life—whether seated or standing at the bar.

Next, indulge in one of Naples’ most revered traditions: bespoke tailoring. Via Chiaia hosts some of the world’s most renowned tailor shops. Avallone, the fourth-generation owner of Parker’s, recommends Sartoria Peluso and E. Marinella (for ties) and the legendary Mariano Rubinacci. For prêt-à-porter with a sartorial edge, visit The Secrets. And if you’re really short on time, Avallone can arrange a custom fitting at Parker’s with these master tailors.

As the day winds down, stroll along Lungomare Caracciolo, a scenic promenade offering breathtaking views. For dinner, Avallone suggests Osteria Pignatelli, where seasonal ingredients and refined flavors take center stage, or head to 50Kalo by award-winning pizzaiolo Ciro Salvo for what many claim is the world’s best pizza.

Cap off your evening with drinks on Parker’s Rooftop or, if the weather is less than perfect, slip into L’Antiquario, an art nouveau-inspired speakeasy by acclaimed mixologist Alex Frezza.

Thomas Dane Gallery. Credit: Erica Firpo

Day Two

Your second day in Chiaia is dedicated to immersing yourself in the city’s rich cultural scene, with three must-visit spots. Begin at the Thomas Dane Gallery, a contemporary art space that brings a slice of London’s avant-garde spirit to the heart of Naples. Set within a historic palazzo, the gallery’s rotating exhibitions of modern works are as captivating as the stunning views of the bay they overlook.

The Palazzo delle Arti Napoli (PAN), a cultural hub nestled within a grand historic building, is a short walk away. PAN showcases Naples’ vibrant artistic community, offering diverse exhibitions spanning painting, sculpture, photography and digital art. (Editor’s note: PAN has been closed for a few months and, at press time, there wasn’t any official word on when it would reopen.)

Pause for a break in genuine Italian style at Pasticceria Mennella, where a flaky sfogliatella (a shell-shaped pastry) and a rich espresso will recharge you before your next stop: Villa Pignatelli. This 19th-century villa provides a glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of Neapolitan nobility, with its lavishly decorated rooms, period furniture and impressive collection of fine art.

Galleria Borbonica. Credit: Erica Firpo

Next, make the short trip over to Galleria Borbonica, where you’ll find the 1,738-foot-long Bourbon Tunnel. Designed to serve as a military escape route, this engineering marvel later served as a bomb shelter and emergency hospital during World War II. Exploring its atmospheric passageways today offers a unique perspective on the city’s layered history.

Before the sun sets, head back up to Grand Hotel Parker’s rooftop terrace. The panoramic views are stunning, and the drinks are always shaken, not stirred. Avallone, a devoted Ian Fleming fan, has curated the bar as a tribute to James Bond, featuring a menu with more than 200 martinis inspired by the iconic character. Avallone’s top pick is the lemon-tinged Vesper.

With twinkling city lights and the majestic silhouette of Mount Vesuvius as your backdrop, conclude the eventful weekend with a meal at Grand Hotel Parker’s stellar George Restaurant. Here, elevated dining meets the flavors of Southern Italy through dishes such as Italian pigeon breast marinated with chili bean sauce, strawberry-grape juice and cloves that celebrate Naples’ rich culinary heritage while adding a contemporary twist.

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Guide, Hotels

The Caribbean Island That Stars Want To Keep To Themselves

Vacay like an A-lister at Zemi Beach House Anguilla. Credit: Zemi Beach House Anguilla, LXR Hotels & Resorts

Eddie Murphy is one of the biggest comedic actors in history. Based on his international stardom alone, Murphy could have probably had his wedding anywhere in the world. But he and longtime partner Paige Butcher decided to exchange their vows back in July in Anguilla, an enchanting Caribbean island roughly half the size of Washington, D.C., that’s hugged by white sands and turquoise waters.

As much as the dreamy destination caters to the Hollywood elite on holiday, the thing that makes the island special is its knack for ensuring everyday people feel like stars, too. And nowhere on the island is that statement truer than at Forbes Travel Guide Recommended Zemi Beach House Anguilla, LXR Hotels & Resorts. Here, no matter if you’re checking in for a stay or checking out the spa menu, everyone is tended to like a celebrity.

When Forbes Travel Guide visited the Shoal Bay sanctuary recently, we were wined, wowed and whisked about like a rock star. But from the relaxed looks on guests’ faces around the resort, we weren’t the only ones feeling the love. Here are the five things we’ll most remember about our VIP vacation.

(Editor’s note: Zemi Beach House is in the midst of its annual closure. The resort will reopen on October 19.)

You’ll be blown away by all of Anguilla’s blues. Credit: DeMarco Williams

The Setting

Though Anguilla has Clayton J. Lloyd International Airport, the easiest way to the island may be through another country. By flying into neighboring St. Maarten’s Princess Juliana International Airport, you’re afforded a few more options. Once you land, simply take a prearranged boat ride with a company like Funtime Boat Charter that’ll get you to Anguilla in about 30 minutes. From there, it’s just another 15-minute car ride through quaint towns to the resort.

As you approach Zemi Beach House’s white-washed villas, you’ll pass grazing goats on one side of the street and an impressive solar farm on the other. The 2,700 panels generate 100% of the resort’s daytime power, a claim no other Caribbean resort can make. But Zemi Beach House’s green-forward ethos doesn’t stop there; in collecting rainwater for landscaping irrigation and offering a Digital Detox Experience (gadgets are exchanged for detox juices at registration; books and board games are placed in rooms), it’s living it in other ways.

The views are great from the inside and out. Credit: Zemi Beach House Anguilla, LXR Hotels & Resorts

The Rooms

The first thing you notice about Zemi Beach House is that you hardly notice anything at all. There aren’t any cruise ships in the distance and no loud jet skis whooshing by your window. The place has a tranquil, romantic air. Maybe that’s why the likes of Justin Bieber and Harry Styles have holed up here.

That’s not to say children aren’t welcomed because they most certainly are. There’s just something about stone-carved headboards and palm-lined walkways that feels more intimate. But no matter who is on your reservation, the 76-room resort has a unit for you. The spacious one-bedroom suite exudes coastal chicness. We’re talking a full kitchen, sizeable living room and a plunge pool that practically guarantees triple-digit likes on your next post.

Should you need more space, two- and three-bedroom options stretch things out even more. The massive Presidential Suite comes with a furnished terrace for lounging or looking across the horizon. If there’s a better place on the island for partaking in morning room service while watching sandwich terns fly by, we’ve yet to find it.

Steak Diane from Stone. Credit: DeMarco Williams

The Food and Drinks

Though Anguillan waters teem with wahoo and mahi, you may want to center your meal at 20 Knots around the risotto. It’s just that amazing. Not only is the dish’s saffron sauce the ideal creaminess, but the braised short rib resting on top is some of the most tender we’ve had all year. The flavors in the lobster spaghetti and lobster mac and cheese also speak so loudly you almost can’t hear the crashing waves mere feet from your table.

Stone is another standout for dinner. With a dining room filled with blue fabrics, light woods and a see-through wine cellar, the place has a subtle sexiness about it. How long that feeling lasts into the evening depends on how well you can keep the grilled snapper’s pesto sauce or the tenderloin’s peppercorn juice from falling onto your outfit.

Even with all this excitement at the table, though, Zemi Beach House’s most flavorful encounter has nothing to do with a fork and knife. The Rhum Room is a moody, mature space accentuated with teal, peanut butter leather chairs and a collection of more than 100 small-batch rums. We have no idea what Dustin Hoffman ordered during his last visit to the resort, but trust us when we suggest that the “rummelier” on staff should pour you the smooth Doorly’s from Barbados or Dictador from Colombia.

The Zemi Thai House Spa. Credit: Zemi Beach House Anguilla, LXR Hotels & Resorts

The Spa

When you first enter the resort, you’ll spot a unique-looking building to your right that doesn’t quite resemble the other structures. That’s because Zemi Thai House Spa actually sits in a 307-year-old house that was literally moved to Anguilla from Thailand. From the weathered woods on the steps to a Buddha statue in the middle of a garden, the place delivers Far East charm without losing any of its Caribbean core.

The spa doesn’t stop with an Asian design aesthetic, either; the treatment menu is also sprinkled with international inspirations. The island’s only hammam is a nod to Morocco’s beloved baths used to ease achy muscles and help blood circulation. Nuad Fathoaw helps lessen pains with a soak, scrub, wrap and massage using traditional Chinese ingredients. The Therapeutic Well-Being may not borrow any specific global techniques, but the thorough custom massage does a world of good to weathered bodies.

After your session, trek on over to the vitality pool or stop by the Juice Bar for a refreshing juice or smoothie to help wash down wear and worries even further.

Zemi Beach House’s family pool. Credit: DeMarco Williams

The Family Fun

Up to this point, the Zen-like Zemi Beach House has felt more couples-focused than kid-friendly. The spectacular main pool, with its zigzag shapes and cabanas, is the perfect place for children to cut the silence. So, too, is the Kids Club, which has a packed calendar — when we visited, the itinerary had puppet shows, Mario Kart tournaments, jewelry-making classes and more on it — your tyke will have a good time keeping up with.

Still, the biggest fun might come when you’re off property altogether. The resort will happily organize an unforgettable day-trip excursion to nearby Sandy Island. You’ll be first driven to Sandy Ground Beach, where you can grab a rum punch and seafront views at Johnno’s on the Beach. When you finish sipping, hop on a boat for a short ride to a tiny island with a full-time kitchen (the shrimp kebabs and grilled mahi are must-orders) and part-time live entertainment. This is the kind of place Kendall Jenner may have bought out on her last Anguilla stay. As for right now, if you want to keep up with your kids who’ve already jumped back into the crystal-clear waters, you better hurry up with those last bites of lobster.  

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Food and Wine, Restaurants

3 Restaurants To Visit During Miami Spice

Pao by Paul Qui is a feast for the eyes. Credit: Pao by Paul Qui

If you’re the type of traveler who would visit Miami just to savor a sweet guava-and-cheese-stuffed pastelito and potent cup of Cuban coffee at Versailles, Miami Spice Restaurant Months is a must.

The 23rd annual event from the Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau gives foodies an extra reason to try some of the best restaurants in the city: through September, you can enjoy three-course lunches and brunches for $30 or $35 and dinners for $45 or $60.

However, in a city spilling over with restaurants, the dining options can be overwhelming. More than 350 restaurants are participating across 20 neighborhoods in Greater Miami and Miami Beach, but we found three enticing spots to put at the top of your Miami Spice culinary itinerary:

Pao by Paul Qui

Set within the bright, bold Forbes Travel Guide Five-Star Faena Hotel Miami Beach, Pao is a feast for the eyes. Under a gold-leaf dome, palm fronds adorn the walls and a Damien Hirst unicorn sculpture (named Golden Myth, it’s half painted in bronze and gold leaf and half flayed, exposing the muscles and tissues) stands sentinel over diners sitting in the brown leather curved banquettes.

Born in Manila and based in Texas, Qui came to fame when he competed on the ninth season of Top Chef. Now he’s known for helping introduce Filipino cuisine to a wider audience with his own string of restaurants. At Four-Star Pao, Qui continues to showcase Filipino food, but he weaves in Japanese, French and Spanish influences for unique fusion fare.

For dinner, begin with the fried chicken, crunchy bites of boneless meat coated in sweet chili sauce, topped with fresh herbs, jalapeño and shallots with roasted banana ketchup for dipping. Or go for the maguro, fresh bluefin tuna with tomatillo aguachile, sesame oil, serrano pepper and avocado puree. Then move on to tobanyaki, a savory plate of adobo rice, Comté cheese espuma, wagyu short rib and pickled chilies, or the branzino with black garlic miso labneh and kaffir-brown butter breadcrumbs.

Desserts also get the fusion treatment, whether it’s the panna cotta with strawberry confit, Thai basil and coconut-lime sorbet or the champorado, a chocolate rice porridge with caramelized cashews, soufflé and Hukambi whipped ganache.

Insider Tip: Arrive early for a drink at the bar. As you gaze at the unicorn sculpture, sip The Myth. The tropical libation infuses ube (a Filipino purple yam) into Grey Goose and Absolut vodka and adds coconut rum, toasted pineapple and lemon. It comes in a heavy copper cup shaped like a unicorn head.

A sampling of Sofia’s sophisticated fare. Credit: INK Entertainment Group

Sofia

This Design District restaurant hides in a corner of the Palm Court shopping center, but you know you’re heading in the right direction when you come upon the Italian restaurant’s ruffled pink umbrellas on the patio. More pink awaits inside, and it’s decidedly more glamorous with floors made of pink and white marble, salmon-colored velvet chairs under milky-white Murano glass chandeliers and alcoves bathing a rosy neon light on the pink leather booths.

But your eyes will be drawn to the art, a rotating display of contemporary works like Italian painter Marco Grassi’s Grama Gold Experience n. 572, a portrait of a wide-eyed young woman surrounded by gold leaf and bursts of bright colors, or Russell Young’s Marilyn Crying, a screen-print of a famous photo of Marilyn Monroe weeping in a car. Here, she shimmers with pink diamond dust.

After admiring the Pop works, start brunch with appetizers like the thick sourdough bruschetta with heirloom tomatoes, creamy stracciatella cheese, basil and balsamic, or the fritto misto, a heaping plate of fried calamari, zucchini and eggplant with a Meyer lemon aioli dipping sauce.

For the main course, the spicy rigatoni alla vodka is a must. Sofia’s signature dish is elevated comfort food (thanks to the 36-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano shards) with a kick (courtesy of the Calabrian chili). Though the carrozza also is tempting — the brioche buffalo mozzarella sandwich is coated and fried to crisp perfection, with each triangle standing upright on a pool of Parmesan fonduta and topped with truffle shavings. For the last course, go for the tiramisu. Sofia updates the traditional dessert by layering in its housemade espresso semifreddo.

Check out the special list of Miami Spice cocktails, too. We enjoyed the fruity pink-hued Love Affair, with tequila, pisco, passion fruit, pistachio and chili tincture for some heat.

Insider Tip: The pretty-in-pink patio is popular. Snag one of the plush blush loveseats or rattan peacock chairs to dine under the palm trees. You’ll have a good vantage point for architect Buckminster Fuller’s Fly’s Eye Dome, a 24-foot geodesic dome with bubbled sides that serves as the courtyard’s centerpiece.

A look inside Avra’s lush dining room. Credit: Avra Miami

Avra Estiatorio Miami

Avra was a dream of cofounder Nick Tsoulos, who emigrated from Greece and brought with him the seafood and taverna-style fare he grew up eating. Avra first made a splash in New York before moving to other cities, with more U.S. locations on the way.

The Miami outpost, tucked inside Five-Star Acqualina Resort and Residences on the Beach’s Estates, brings elements of Greece into the sprawling dining room. Bougainvillea laces through the pergola ceiling, fiddle-leaf figs and potted leafy trees pepper the space, salt stone sculptures hang on the white walls and floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the ocean.

Here, you will find wholesome food simply prepared to let the fresh, quality ingredients shine. At dinner, you could fill up by sharing starters like the classic spreads (we especially enjoyed the htipiti, a velvety spicy red pepper and whipped feta dip, and the melitzanosalata, a smoky eggplant option) with fresh pita; the tender, flavorful grilled octopus with Vidalia onions, capers, bell peppers and red wine vinaigrette; and the classic grilled saganaki (and you might want to go off the Miami Spice menu and add on the addictive Avra chips, paper-thin rounds of fried zucchini and eggplant with tzatziki). But then you wouldn’t get to enjoy the mild, sweet lavraki (sea bass) filet or the grilled chicken drizzled with lemon sauce.

While you can never go wrong with baklava, don’t miss the portakalopita. We’re still thinking about the cake’s layers of moist, flaky phyllo infused with zesty orange flavor and aromatic spices accompanied by a scoop of housemade vanilla ice cream.

Savor the last of the season with the Summer Spice, a well-balanced Miami Spice cocktail featuring Four Roses bourbon, pineapple, lime, simple syrup, cocoa bitters and a Tajín rim for a jolt.

Insider Tip: Opt for an alfresco terrace table overlooking the ocean. In addition, there’s more to taste at Acqualina: the Sunny Isles hotel offers Miami Spice menus at its Four-Star Italian fine-dining spot Il Mulino New York and Japanese fusion restaurant Ke-uH.

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Outdoors, Sports

Flying Kites And Riding Bikes In Martha’s Vineyard

Take your New England vacation to new heights. Credit: Skyhigh/MarkBegle

Martha’s Vineyard is an island of as many fancies as the flavors of ice cream at Mad Martha’s. Tourists flock to its lighthouses, the Flying Horses Carousel, the Gingerbread Houses of Oak Bluffs and natural wonders like the Aquinnah Cliffs. A short ferry ride from Cape Cod, the island feels like a true escape, complete with luxury accommodations such as the historic Harbor View Hotel in Edgartown. And while the average vacationer seeks relaxation or quaint retail therapy, the Vineyard also offers amazing outdoor adventures.

Whether you want an easygoing bike tour or a more intense 50-mile off-road ride, the Vineyard’s systems of dedicated paths, less-traveled roads and rustic trails will scratch your itch. For those seeking aquatic thrills, the winds and protected waters off Chappaquiddick and other spots have made the island a kiteboarding mecca. Additionally, a more mellow entry into kiting has also emerged in the form of wing foiling over the past few years.

So, if you think beaches are wonderful, but you’d rather have more active pursuits, here are a few options on Martha’s Vineyard that will certainly get your heart rate up.

Wing foiling is a safer, more accessible way to enjoy the water. Credit: Skyhigh/Mark Begle

Kiteboarding and Wing Foiling

“I’ve been chasing wind and waves since I was a little kid boogie boarding and windsurfing,” says Mark Begle, Martha’s Vineyard native and owner of Skyhigh Kiteboarding & Wing Foiling. After college and a postgraduate boatbuilding program, Begle moved to Oregon’s Hood River Gorge, an epicenter of hardcore windsurfing. Here, he worked in the Northwave sail loft, building sails.

On the side, he helped construct some of the prototypes for kiteboarding pioneer Cory Roeseler and was quickly swept away by the fledgling sport. “It was like snowboarding to skiing, new and radical,” he recalls. But Begle found the Gorge too windy for kiting. The prevailing south-westerlies of his home Massachusetts waters, however, proved ideal, so he decided to move back to the Vineyard.

As anyone who has kited or witnessed kiteboarding knows, this sport is not for the faint of heart. Boarders can regularly catch 20-plus feet of air. When the boarders kite off Edgartown’s State Beach, spectators think they’re jumping over the road. “It’s like a carnival show, great to watch, but it’s never been a sport for the masses,” Begle says. With a steep learning curve, it also takes a lot of stubbornness and dedication. “The kite will just drag you around. You get pulled downwind like a human fishing lure,” he says. “Finally, on day four or day six, most people are able to start riding. But everyone learning to kite has a mental breakdown, a freakout before they transform.”

Just as hydrofoils have taken over in the America’s Cup, the concept of foiling (which allows a watercraft to rise from the water and minimize drag) has taken off in the kiteboarding world. Recent innovations and the realization that a full kite is no longer necessary to achieve liftoff have led to the emergence of wing foiling. Because the new sport is safer and more accessible, it has also moved to the forefront of Skyhigh’s instructional programs. “The wing only has 1/10th the power of a kite, and it’s much more intuitive,” Begle says. “There are no lines. You don’t need a harness. You can kneel on the board when you’re learning.” After just one or two lessons in wing foiling, students can grow confident enough to practice independently. “It’s going to be tame at first, not as adrenaline-packed,” he says. “But no one in their right mind would go teach themselves to kite.”

Most of the kite instruction that Begle provides these days is for experienced boarders seeking coaching to develop and refine their skills. But if you have the desire and time to learn, he’s happy to teach beginners, too. “I still teach kiting, but everyone I know is going over to wing foiling,” he says. “Anyone can try it — I’ve taught students from eight to 78 years old.”

Enjoying the view at Cedar Tree Neck. Credit: Steve Kasacek

Cycling

Back on land, bike adventures around Martha’s Vineyard may feel more familiar than kiting, but there’s plenty of range within the sport. “It’s a pretty awesome place to get around by bike, for sure, with a lot of paths and some quiet roads for beginners, like Atlantic Drive, along South Beach,” says Steve Kasacek, former project manager for the International Mountain Bike Association. “It’s really pretty, with the open ocean right there. Just need to be mindful on windy days.”

Kasacek’s wife is a native islander, and the couple has lived here for seven years. He has ridden every inch of Martha’s Vineyard but spends most of his time on dirt. “People love the road-riding scene here, but I mostly stick to gravel and trails, mostly up-island,” he says. “It’s perfect for my hardtail, with a lot of singletracks open to bikes. And fun fact: the highest point on Martha’s Vineyard — Peaked Hill at 311 feet — is higher than the highest spot on the Cape.” One of his favorite rides, at Cedar Tree Neck, is a real “rugged” one where riders can enter off the top, drop down through singletrack and come out right at the ocean.  

In terms of bona fides, the local cycling scene boasts world-class athletes, including former Olympic mountain bikers and national champions in criterium and cyclocross. Frank Jennings, the founding owner of Edgartown Bicycles, holds the vaunted stars-and-stripes jersey after taking the 2023 Cyclocross National Championship in Louisville, Kentucky, where he won the Men Masters category for participants 70-plus. Jon Malone, shop manager at Edgartown Bicycles, recently returned from Leadville, Colorado, with the goal of establishing a better corral position for the prestigious Leadville 100 race in the near future. “I’m gonna be 50 in November, so I have my work cut out for me to compare with this local crew,” he says.

Malone is like a kid in Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium when he describes all the happenings on Martha’s Vineyard these days. “There are a lot of nice, easy bike path rides from the shop,” he says. “You can head south to Katama and South Beach or go north to State Beach, which is more family-friendly. Both are super accessible.” Another path runs west, beyond the airport and around the state forest.

The cycling community is strong in the Vineyard. Credit: Doug Burke

“We’re about to launch a series of guided tours,” Malone adds. These will cater to all levels and types of riders, from the casual to competitive, on paths, tarmac, dirt roads and trails. “We’ll be offering some high-end guided mountain bike tours,” he says. “And with our backdoor access to local farms, we will incorporate food tastings and educational components.” A new skills area will open soon, with skinnies and a pump track. “We’re also working with a private landowner to develop short-track mountain biking as well as a cyclocross course,” Malone says.

Along with the cycling community, Malone has kept the biking torch burning. Edgartown Bicycles puts on the Kraken Series: the 50K Fire Kraken held on July 4 and the 100K Full Kraken. “These races are on about 94% dirt, and the 100K has about 4,600 to 4,700 feet of vertical,” Malone says. “There’s been an active mountain biking scene here since the infancy of the sport, back in the ’70s and ’80s. We’re constantly seeking new routes off the tarmac, building new trails, creating better connectivity.”

If organized races feel intimidating, group rides on the Vineyard are inclusive, welcoming and easy to join. “The road scene is still happening here, too,” Malone says. “There’s a huge island ride on Sunday mornings, usually about 50 to 70 miles.” Edgartown Bicycles and other island shops such as Wheel Happy, Corner Cycles and Brickyard Bicycles rent everything from cruisers to performance machines, and they’ll happily share routes and advice with visitors.

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